My Light Diagram

In the previous post, we set about making a replacement decal for the neck on this vintage Hofner Colorama II. Before we lacquer the neck, we need to apply the decal. The decal is printed on special laser waterslide decal paper. This paper just prints on a standard laser printer. It’s also possible to get inkjet waterslide decal paper, but just note that an inkjet printout requires that you spray a layer of lacquer over the printed decal before you let it anywhere near water. So first we put some not-too-hot/not-too-cold water in a little dish and place the decal in there, making sure to submerge it. After a minute or so you will notice that it starts to separate from the paper. You can test this by seeing if it will slide around on the paper, but don’t force it too much. While we are waiting for the decal to reach this separation stage, it’s a good idea to spread just a little bit of water on the area where we will apply the decal. This helps to prep the surface for what is to come. O...

Please note that this post is part three of four posts. I highly recommend reading all four posts in order before acting on any of the information. The other parts are located here: Part 1: http://diystrat.blogspot.com/2009/01/gibson-deluxe-tuners-and-why-they-suck.html Part 2: http://diystrat.blogspot.com/2009/01/gibson-deluxe-tuners-part-two.html Part 4: http://diystrat.blogspot.com/2010/01/gibson-deluxe-tuners-revisit.html OK! Done! I tried various different options and finally settled on one that I was very happy with. Ironically, it was the one I thought wouldn’t work – the solder fix. I had already tried the glue repair in the past, but it eventually broke again, so I didn’t even bother trying this time. However, it was going to be my last-resort fix if necessary. Before I show you the solder fix, I should mention that I did try the metal strap solution first. I cut out a little paper template to fit over the tuner and then went hunting for a suitable piece of metal. (paper templ...

 Nmos400 A power amplifier module capable of up to 400 watts into a 4 ohm load depending on power supply and the output mosfets used.  The layout makes use of older style TO3 mosfets. Nmos400-TO3 Schematic Nmos400-TO3 Layout Nmos350 Mk2 This revised version yet to be built improves a few perfomance areas. I considered more complex ideas but this increased the component count and original idea of the amp would have been lost; that is a powerful high quality amplifier that used commonly available and cheap components. A LED as the voltage reference for the first stage constant current source tracks changes in temperature slightly better that than the old double diode setup. A cascode second stage makes it faster and more linear. Better clipping attributes The fuse has been shifted out of the voltage drive loop between the driver and output stages. Nmos350 Mk2 Schematic